By Brigitta Hauser-Schaublin, Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff, Urs Ramseyer
Originally released in 1991, in organization with the Museum der Kulturen, Basel.
This electronic version released 2012
In this superbly illustrated ebook, 3 specialists learn the historical past, construction and makes use of of textiles in Balinese society. Many high-quality items are offered, their uncooked fabrics and strategies of weaving and dyeing are defined, and the complicated symbolism and formality features of every are defined intimately.
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Extra info for Balinese Textiles
In the central part of this women's hip cloth, the golden patterns coalesce into a shimmering constellation of stars. Even today checked materials with golden patterns (songket poleng) are typical of east Bali (Fig. 13). 12 (top): Programming the pattern heddle rods (nuduk). Karangasem, Sidemen. 13 (above): Young ksatria women weaving a checkered songket poleng with turnpeng border for an outer hip cloth. Karangasem, Sidemen. 14 (following pages): Princely songket outer hip cloth. Gold andsilver threads on silk.
The warp is then fixed at various places to prevent the warp threads from becoming tangled, and with the addition of the warp beam and the various sticks for shedding, it is rolled up into a bundle and handed over to the programming specialist. Setting up the additional heddle rods for pattern programming (nuduk) is by far the most exacting process in the whole production. The demands on the woman's dexterity, patience and eyesight are so great that 43 SONGKeT only a few specialists perform this task.
Likewise; endek triangles with small, multicolored dashes nest together with contrasting songket ones to form rectangles. The basic color of these early endek-songket fabrics is red—varying from a deep purple-red to a warm brick-red. Only later do yellows and greens appear, Early figural representations are rare and very sumptuous, consisting for example patola patterns with lions and riders on elephants (see Chapter 8). This tendency to imitate patterns produced by other techniques— thereby creating, as it were, a substitute product—can also be observed in endek versions of the geringsing patelikuf double-ikat cloths.